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Perth

- For Our 28th Wedding Anniversary -

21/08/2009

 

Around about the end of 2008, I suggested to my wife Angela that we travel to New Zealand for a holiday. She did not respond there and then, but I started searching for fares and related costs and also looking for somebody to look after our place in our absence. By the middle of January 2009, I was still wondering if going to New Zealand was a good idea.  Angela told me that going to New Zealand never appealed much to her.  

That was that. Some months later, after thinking of an alternative, I considered the two of us going to Perth WA instead.  “The 5th August I will be 69 years old,” I said to Angela one morning over breakfast, “and our wedding anniversary is the 16th August; why not get two birds with one stone?” 

Angela agreed to the idea of going to Perth for ten days. “Why not get some ideas from Jeff. He’s from Perth,” Angela suggested. “Don’t miss out on New Norcia,” was Jeff’s advice.  

And Angela remembered our friend Suzy, an inveterate and adventurous traveller whom we had met in Turkey, and so asked Suzy if she had any suggestions. I’ll put you in touch with my friend Gurbachan,” she answered. 

I recalled our son, Zenith, while in the Navy, had praised the port city of Fremantle, which is just 20 kilometres from Perth.  

But who would mind about our pets? Our good neighbour, Jo, came to the rescue, but sadly by the time we left we just had one lonely cat, as our beautiful dog Leo sadly departed this world just a month before we were due to leave. In the sad circumstances of his untimely death, we were well and truly ready for a holiday and a break. 

So here is the story of our travels in and around Perth, from Sydney airport 7th August returning to Sydney 17th August 2009.  

Perth[1]

After spending 6th August travelling from Scone to Sydney by train and sleeping overnight at Angela’s Mum’s home in Maroubra, we flew at 10 a.m. by Virgin Airline from Mascot to Perth, a 5 hour flight. On the plane, I was hoping to receive some refreshment, but I was greatly disappointed.  Not even a complimentary glass of water did we receive, for all food and drink was for sale – no money no game. 

“What an inveterate mercenary and rotten airline we have chosen,” I said to Angela. “Not even in Turkey, notorious for its aggressive approach to tourists, have we seen such ‘magpies’ as these ‘Virgin’ salespeople.  I remembered travelling on Turkish buses last year. There was always somebody on the bus offering cool water to drink and scented wet towels for the refreshment, free of cost.  But not here in Australia, folk!! What a shame!  

About 1 p.m. Perth time, we made a smooth landing and within a half-hour, we caught a bus which taxied tourists to their accommodation, so we were able to see some of Perth, and around 3 p.m. we were at our destination, the Governor Robinson Hostel[2], about a kilometre north of the CBD in Northbridge.

The weather was fine but cooler than we left behind in Sydney.  We checked in at our hostel, were given the key of our no. 14 ensuite room, then headed out for a walk in the city. We were quite hungry after our trip fro Sydney, so we strolled around looking for a place to dine and found a no-frills Lebanese restaurant which sold good basic Middle Eastern food as a reasonable cost.

 Red CAT, Blue CAT, Yellow CAT 

The following morning, Saturday, we had to enquire how we were to travel to New Norcia the next day. We learned from our guidebook that Perth has a free bus called the CAT within and around the city.  There are three routes; the Yellow CAT does an east-west via the bus and trai stations; the Red does an east-west loop through the CBD and the Blue travels a north-south loop from the river through the city.[3] 

Angela and I tried them all on our first full day, a most pleasurable and leisurely way to discover what the city has to offer.  Our closest was the Blue CAT. We asked the driver who was most helpful. He even waited outside for us while we went in to an agency to ask for information. We found what we were looking for: a bus for New Norcia, which would go the next morning at 11:25 a. m. from East Perth Coach terminal[4].

New Norcia[5]

Thus, after a short train trip to East Perth Coach terminal[6] and a two hour journey by coach we arrived in New Norcia at 1:30 p.m.  During the ride, I couldn’t help notice the similarity of the landscape to the Hunter valley were we live, apart from the coal mines that we see in the Hunter Valley; here one sees the same almost flat land and the large vineyards, sheep and horses everywhere.  The grass here was luxuriant, even greener than we see in NSW, I thought.  ‘The rain fall must be greater here than our place,’ I thought. 

On our arrival at New Norcia, three other passengers alighted: Bill and Alison, a couple on their forties from Melbourne and Kathy, a woman from Perth, probably in her late sixties.  Kathy took the lead to the guesthouse, about 500 meters from the Roadhouse, the four of us following her, for she knew the place well.

 Once settled in our ensuite, no. 12, Angela and I scouted around, as we usually do. My first sensation was a combination of nostalgia, solitude and peace, and melancholy all put together, though melancholy was predominant.  I say this because, being a Catholic, I could not contain the feeling I had for the place, which historically has been Catholic to the hilt, but now not any longer.

New Norcia was an Aboriginal mission, founded in 1847 by a saintly Spanish Benedictine, Rudesindus Salvado[7] who dedicated his whole life for the poor and for the Aboriginal children, orphans and adults alike, not only doing great works of mercy with only limited means at his disposal, but creating a place of rich cultural significance. 

The town of New Norcia is wholly owned by the Benedictine Community, whose charism of hospitality takes the form of bed and full board in an atmosphere of tranquility and natural beauty, for a suggested donation of $75 per night. One can join the monks in their prayers several times a day. 

A staff of about eighty, half of whom live in the town, keep the many industries going: like the sheep station, the olive grove, the bakery which makes quality breads for restaurants and other Perth outlets, the brewery which produces a fine drop called Abbey Ale, the Hotel, built originally for the parents of children in the care of the sisters and monks, the Roadhouse-Post Office, the Museum of which one floor houses memorabilia, another a collection of fine paintings and a third a display from the days when the same building operated as St Joseph’s Orphanage.  

Regrettably, apart from a token presence at the monastery of about six Benedictine monks, it is pretty much a tourist center, a relic past great endeavor. I doubt very much, though, that it could operate without the Australian (or WA State) government and UNESCO having their hands on it.  In other words, the Benedictine monastery there doesn’t operate so much as a centre for Catholic spirituality, because the traditional soul of Catholicism elapsed, as in other Catholic institutions worldwide, with Vatican II, and New Norcia is affected just as the rest. 

To find out what New Norcia stands for now or what it was in the past, the best link I found is http://www.newnorcia.com/index.htm.

 Back to Perth

So after spending a couple of nights at New Norcia [we had thoughts of spending two more days; the bus comes every second day], we left for Perth after lunch on the Tuesday.  I don’t regret my stay in New Norcia; for me it was a new and very interesting experience, with everlasting memories of the greatness of the Catholic Church before Vatican II - ad Majorem Dei Gloriam.

 Back in Perth, we went back without delay to our Governor Robinson hostel, having booked for another couple of nights there.  That evening, we went dinner for the second time to The Sparrow, an Indonesian restaurant close to our hostel.  The first time we went there, the cost of the substantial and tasty meal was $18.00 for the two of us (after 10% discount for first-timers).  However, this time, the attractive young woman who served us presented us with a bill for $43.00.  I was astounded and I said to Angela: “We had more or less similar food on Saturday, and now they are asking us to pay more than double.  This is a rip-off, no doubt about it.” We had noticed there was a mistake for the benefit of the business with an earlier customer.

 We asked to see the menu to calculate the cost for ourselves. Another, younger, girl, who had been watching us closely, gave us another bill, this time for $23.00.  That was the last time we went there, choosing an Indian restaurant for the following evening.  But I am ahead of my story.

 Fremantle[8]

The following morning Angela and I got the train, this time to visit Fremantle.  More than once I had heard how delightful Fremantle is. The praise of the spot is one thing but to see it with your own eyes is totally another affair.  Yes, indeed Fremantle is a fantastic place to visit and one should not go to WA without a visit, even if only a day trip.

 As for the beauty and the history of the Round House[9] - fantastic, to say the least.  Observing the instrument, called the stocks[10] for punishment for the petty criminals of those days, I said to the volunteer guide: “I would like to see that instrument of punishment back in use today. What do you think?”  The man looked at me with a twinkle in his eye: “Actually, the government is considering instating more severe laws in that regard to stop youthful criminals going unpunished.”  I was glad to hear that, thinking finally somebody is talking sense.

Having happily, in spite of the rainy weather, spent all day visiting Fremantle, we returned to Perth, and hopped on a blue CAT bound for Northbridge. I was famished and I said to Angela: “We should look for that Indian restaurant the couple in New Norcia mentioned.”  “Do you mean the Annalakshmi[11]?” she asked.  We had been told that they ask, not a set fee for the food, but only for a donation. 

We found it perched on a jetty overlooking the Swan River, with elegant décor, friendly host, and tasty food.  To see some photos of the place, please click here: Annalakshmi Indian Restaurant, and here:  http://picasaweb.google.com.au/martello.nadirangela9/Perth#5371850181448718770

or here: http://picasaweb.google.com.au/martello.nadirangela9/Perth#5371850529647299730 

Gurbachan[12]

Our remaining four days, we spent with Suzy’s friend, Gurbachan, a retired pilot who lives about an hour north of Perth via Joondalup, in Marijanup[13].  Gurbachan was kind enough to have us as his guest at his very interesting and roomy home.[14]  Unfortunately, because of the bad weather, we could not go out much, but stayed inside the house sharing some cooking ideas and good food, along with much interesting conversation.  Once the weather improved a little, we went shopping with our host at Wanneroo market[15] only to be caught in a hailstorm. Angela wished there was such a market close to Scone. Sunday afternoon cleared enough to have a chance to see more of the surroundings, like beautiful Burns Beach[16]  where we had our picnic in the car for protection from another shower of rain, Hilary's Boat Harbour[17], Sorrento Quay[18],   and the various undercover shops.  

That night Gurbachan helped us to celebrate with a bottle od Champagne and another sumptuous meal. And happy 28th wedding anniversary! 

Back home

The next morning Gurbachan drove us to the Perth airport, where we caught our plane for Sydney.  It was about at 4:30 p.m. when our plane landed at Mascot.  Within half an hour, our son Zenith arrived to pick up us and drove us at his home in North Ryde.  Here finishes our story, glad to be home once again. 


 

 

 

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